Exclusive interview with chef James Allcock on his return from Paris and his plans for the Pig & Whistle in Beverley
How many of us dream of opening a restaurant? A surprising amount actually. A recent survey by the CBI said 1 in 3 people working in hospitality had considered opening a place of their own. And whilst many try, sadly, not all succeed, and those that do often tell of how tough it is, especially right now. It takes courage, creativity and hard work, especially if you want to offer a truly high-quality dining experience.
Take James Allcock for one, Owner and head chef of the Pig & Whistle in Beverley, which in its short life has already been rated one of the Sunday Times ‘top 100 places to eat in the UK’. Amongst the long list of rave reviews, the rating is quite an accolade for the 25-cover bistro in Sow Hill, not achieved without dedication and commitment from James and his team.
Reading the Pig & Whistle’s frequent social media updates, you get to understand the back-breaking work that goes on behind the scenes to make it the well-loved place it is.
Throw in a global pandemic, after which restaurant owners have had to double down their efforts to survive, it really is, more than ever a true labour of love.
So, when James, who has worked at Gordon Ramsey’s Petrus and The Burnt Truffle in Heswall, finally took a few days well-earned break, you might expect him to collapse into a deckchair atop white sand and lapping water. Not a chance. James, who is also credited with steering Hull’s former 1884 Dock Street Kitchen into the Michelin Guide, spent his short February break in a freezing cold Paris, gathering ideas to further delight the Beverley dining scene, of which the P&W is now a star turn.
We contacted James as he returned to the Pig to see how the trip had gone and what diners in Beverley might now expect.
Q: Firstly James, where did you eat on your trip?
“I went to Parcelles, Le Dome, La Bourse et La Vie and Frenchie on the now legendary Rue du Nil. It’s a complete foodie street, with a baker, fruit & veg, butcher, fishmonger, wine shop, chocolate shop, coffee roaster – It’s just the most amazing street for anyone who loves food”
Q: Was the trip all business or some pleasure?
“I love to travel and reignite my passion for food, it is first and foremost a treat not work. But I’d be lying if the creative juices didn’t instantly flow and inspire new dishes. I’ve been going to Paris since I was 21 and sous chef at the Westwood, I went every January for years but this is the first time I’ve been since opening the Pig”.
Q: Have you re-created any dishes on the P&W menu?
“The amount of things I picked up is unreal. I’ve got endless dishes and inspiration from the trip and I can’t wait to showcase this. I had a tartare of beef at La Bourse bistro using anchovy, I’ve now done my own version of it but still called it tartrate “Le Bourse et la vie on the menu, I prefer to credit the place rather than try and take the credit. Even though it’s my version it’s hugely inspired by them and it’s nice for guests to have a chat with the team about the dish and the name. It tells the story, and that’s what I’m all about! Whenever I do a new version of a dish, I will always credit the place on the menu.”
The amount of things I picked up is unreal, I’ve got endless dishes and inspiration from the trip and I can’t wait to showcase this
James Allcock
Q: And what about wine?
“Natural wine bars are dotted around the place more so than even London, which is why I’ve changed my deli into a fully natural wine list. The wines are meant to be taken home as it’s a shop, but with a tenner corkage you can drink them in the bistro or bar so it’s a real nice addition and no one is doing the natural wines at the level we are”
“Also, many places are decanting the fuller richer champagnes now, I mean I can imagine turning a few heads with this one but it works, it opens them up nicely so I’ll certainly be re-vamping my fizz list and service style after trying some amazing bottles.”
We will be hosting a natural wine and French bistro night soon to showcase what I’ve picked up
Q: How does the dining experience compare with what you offer here in Beverley?
“One thing I realised in France is it’s so popular now to start with some Spanish cured meats even in Paris and move onto French bistro dishes. It made me feel like maybe the Pig isn’t a confusing mix at all and that we are bang on the money”.
Q: Given the work you and the team put in here, shouldn’t you be spending your holiday floating on a lilo?
“Ha, the knowledge and just the excitement of visiting these places makes the hard work worth it, it’s just the boost I needed to push me on to make the pig even better! We will be hosting a natural wine and French bistro night soon to showcase what I’ve picked up”.
“One other thing which was a nice validation is to see all their shops stocking the produce I’ve hand-selected for our deli so that made me feel proud that I’d picked such popular things already”.
Q: What next?
It will be in Spain for a few days over Easter.
We’d like to thank James for his time discussing his trip and all of us here at The Beverley Review are looking forward to seeing the development it will make to the local dining scene.
About the Pig & Whistle, Beverley.
The Pig and Whistle is a fantastic laid back yet high-quality bisto, serving charcuterie and cheese sharing boards, authentic Spanish tapas and a set bistro menu including classic French Alpine ski dishes such as Tartiflette and Raclette. It can be found at No5 Sow Hill Road Beverley. You can visit their website here where there is a link to book online. It is worth following their social media channels which can be found online as there is often late availability if you want to swing by and have a bite to eat with friends.
We would recommend the Pig & Whistle as a place that can accommodate both casual dining and more formal, special occasions.
What a fantastic website so nicely done and very well written articles really good local journalism and. We absolutely love the pig and whistle had no idea how much went in to it . Luke L